I made it!! After 34 hours of traveling, I finally arrived in Nashville at 5:30 PM last night. We flew from Nairobi to London (9 hrs), London to New York (7.5 hrs), New York to Cincinnati (2.5 hours) and Cincinnati to Nashville (1 hr). Plus, we had layovers in between. And only one of my bags didn’t make it all the way through. It got left in Cincinnati and took the next flight to Nashville, and it was dropped off at my mom’s house later that night.
Andrew, my mom, my sister, my brother-n-law and my four nieces and nephews were all at the airport waiting for me. Words can’t explain how happy I was to see them all. We’re celebrating Thanksgiving today (Friday) because we were scared I wouldn’t make it in time. So instead of turkey, we had lasagna and a big Greek salad for dinner. And my friends, Elizabeth and Jake, stopped by to see me.
After taking a shower and now just using the Internet, I’ve realized how much I’ve missed strong water pressure in the shower and high speed Internet! Unforunately, I’m dealing with a bit of jetlag. It’s 4 AM (Nashville time) in the morning and I’m wide awake because my body thinks it’s 1 PM (Nairobi time). But hopefully I’ll adjust soon.
I intend to write several stories from my trip and freelance them to several different publications. Once something is published, I’ll update my blog with a link to the story.
Thank you all for reading my blog these past two months. This trip changed my life. I’ll never look at the world in the way I used to. I’ve learned so much about myself, Kenya, HIV/AIDS and the world. And I hope I’ve been able to open your eyes about a few of those things through my blog.
Friday, November 23, 2007
Tuesday, November 20, 2007
Remembering Father D’Agostino and Going Home!
On Tuesday, we met Shashank, who works for McClatchy here in Nairobi, for lunch at The Swahili Corner downtown. I got chicken marinated in Swahili spices, kale and jipati, which are all traditional Kenyan and Swahili food.
Then we went to Nyumbani to say goodbye to Donna and Bernard. They just received good news. Their first court date is December 7th.
I hung out with Winnie, who is the little girl I’ve absolutely fallen in love with. I gave her a stuffed animal I had brought to Kenya with me, and she loved it!
When it was finally time to go to Father D’Agostino’s memorial service and I had to put her down, she wouldn’t let go of me. My heart about melted at that point.
I REALLY want someone to adopt her. I’ve already checked, and I can’t because I’m not old enough. In order to adopt a child in Kenya, you have to be more than 21 years older than the child among other things. Winnie is 3, and I’m 23 so I’m not eligible.
The papal nuncio, who is the pope’s representative in Kenya, led the memorial mass for Father D’Agostino, who was the founder of Nyumbani.
The children sang and danced.
Priests, children, volunteers, board members and staff members all said different prayers.
And Sister Mary, who is now the executive director of Nyumbani, said while she and everyone at Nyumbani missed Father D’Ag’s inspiration, courage and compassion, they would not mourn today because Father D’Ag instead would have wanted everyone to persevere in Nyumbani’s mission-- helping HIV-positive orphans throughout Kenya-- instead of mourning his death.
After the ceremony, we visited the gravesite of Father D’Ag where the Nyumbani nuns and children spread flowers and water over his grave and had a moment of silence.
Attending Father D’Ag’s memorial service was the perfect way to spend our last night in Kenya because pretty much everything we’ve done in Kenya has revolved around Nyumbani and none of that would have been possible without Father D’Ag.
We begin our journey home tonight (Wednesday) at 11:20 PM. We fly from Nairobi to London, London to New York, New York to Cincinnati, and Cincinnati to Nashville. We finally arrive in Nashville at 5:30 PM on Thursday.
I can’t believe my trip is over. In some ways I feel like I just got here yesterday and in some ways, I feel like I’ve been here for a long time. But nonetheless, I’m so excited to be going home!
The next time I update this blog, I’ll be on U.S. soil!!!!
Then we went to Nyumbani to say goodbye to Donna and Bernard. They just received good news. Their first court date is December 7th.
I hung out with Winnie, who is the little girl I’ve absolutely fallen in love with. I gave her a stuffed animal I had brought to Kenya with me, and she loved it!
When it was finally time to go to Father D’Agostino’s memorial service and I had to put her down, she wouldn’t let go of me. My heart about melted at that point.
I REALLY want someone to adopt her. I’ve already checked, and I can’t because I’m not old enough. In order to adopt a child in Kenya, you have to be more than 21 years older than the child among other things. Winnie is 3, and I’m 23 so I’m not eligible.
The papal nuncio, who is the pope’s representative in Kenya, led the memorial mass for Father D’Agostino, who was the founder of Nyumbani.
The children sang and danced.
Priests, children, volunteers, board members and staff members all said different prayers.
And Sister Mary, who is now the executive director of Nyumbani, said while she and everyone at Nyumbani missed Father D’Ag’s inspiration, courage and compassion, they would not mourn today because Father D’Ag instead would have wanted everyone to persevere in Nyumbani’s mission-- helping HIV-positive orphans throughout Kenya-- instead of mourning his death.
After the ceremony, we visited the gravesite of Father D’Ag where the Nyumbani nuns and children spread flowers and water over his grave and had a moment of silence.
Attending Father D’Ag’s memorial service was the perfect way to spend our last night in Kenya because pretty much everything we’ve done in Kenya has revolved around Nyumbani and none of that would have been possible without Father D’Ag.
We begin our journey home tonight (Wednesday) at 11:20 PM. We fly from Nairobi to London, London to New York, New York to Cincinnati, and Cincinnati to Nashville. We finally arrive in Nashville at 5:30 PM on Thursday.
I can’t believe my trip is over. In some ways I feel like I just got here yesterday and in some ways, I feel like I’ve been here for a long time. But nonetheless, I’m so excited to be going home!
The next time I update this blog, I’ll be on U.S. soil!!!!
Monday, November 19, 2007
Things I’ve Learned
Since my stay in Kenya is coming to an end, I thought I’d let everyone know a few things I’ve learned.
1) Nairobi and Kenya are not as scary as I made them out to be or other people made them out to be.
2) I can actually handle living in Nairobi and Kenya. It’s just like any other big city. You just have to be smart.
3) HIV is also not as scary as it’s made out to be.
4) HIV-positive kids are just like any other kids.
5) Swahili culture is much more conservative than U.S. or European cultures.
6) There is hardly any public display of affection between a man and a woman. And women have hardly any say in the
bedroom.
7) Men, who are not homosexual, will hold hands when they’re hanging out together.
8) Everyone no matter if you’re rich or poor dresses nicely. T-shirts and jeans are hardly ever worn.
9) I’ve learned how much I miss a fountain Diet Coke.
10) In Kenya, there is such a large taboo around sex and such a large discrimination against HIV-positive people.
11) There is pretty much no middle class. It’s the haves and the have-nots. There is poverty like I’ve never seen before.
12) There are days where I love Kenya and days where I hate Kenya.
13) I’ve learned how much I miss a good salad or fruit that I can’t peel like grapes and strawberries.
14) Everything takes three times longer here than it does in the U.S.
12) In order to keep your sanity, you have to learn to go with the flow and be patient. You have no control over when a
matatu will arrive, or if the electricity will go off, or if the interview you set up with someone will suddenly be cancelled
for no good reason or if the police decide to randomly stop traffic.
13) I’ve learned how helpless you can feel when you see poverty like I’ve seen in Kibera.
14) When you’re a thousand miles away, an email, a card and a phone call from the people you love makes all the
difference in the world.
15) When you’re in Nairobi and are white, you absolutely cannot walk at night or risk having a pretty good chance of being
mugged.
16) There is much less freedom of the press in Kenya than there is in U.S.
17) It doesn’t matter how much money you have, if you’re white and are in Kenya, the locals will think you are the richest
person in the world and have “ATM” written on your forehead.
18) International aide does not always solve all the problems because it causes people to be dependent on that aide and
never strive for self-sustainability.
19) The roads in Kenya are some of the worst roads I’ve ever seen.
20) When you travel to a developing country, you need to find ways to escape. In my case, watching Grey’s Anatomy DVD’s
was my escape.
21) For people who get car sick, Dramamine is essential when you come to Kenya.
22) Without checks and balances, those in power can cause detrimental effects to their country.
23) You can meet good people everywhere.
24) When something doesn’t turn out the way you plan, keep your eyes open to other possibilities. Michael and I originally
were coming to Kenya to follow a Lost Boy on his quest to be reunited with his family. But that plan didn’t work out,
and I almost decided to cancel the trip. But if I had, I would have missed out on all the things I’ve learned, all the great
people I’ve met and the stories I’m telling about how people are responding to the rising number of orphans affected
and infected by HIV.
25) When you travel to a place unknown and truly step out of your comfort zone, that’s when you grow the most and learn
the most about yourself.
But most of all, I’ve learned how lucky I am. I feel like it’s very fitting that I’m returning on Thanksgiving Day because this year, more than ever before, I really know what I’m thankful for. I’m thankful that I got the opportunity to go on this trip, for the challenges it’s given me, for how much I’ve learned and how much I’ve grown. I’m thankful that I was born in the U.S. and was given so many opportunities that children in Kenya would kill for. And I’m thankful for my friends, family and boyfriend who I’ve missed so much but will see so soon!
1) Nairobi and Kenya are not as scary as I made them out to be or other people made them out to be.
2) I can actually handle living in Nairobi and Kenya. It’s just like any other big city. You just have to be smart.
3) HIV is also not as scary as it’s made out to be.
4) HIV-positive kids are just like any other kids.
5) Swahili culture is much more conservative than U.S. or European cultures.
6) There is hardly any public display of affection between a man and a woman. And women have hardly any say in the
bedroom.
7) Men, who are not homosexual, will hold hands when they’re hanging out together.
8) Everyone no matter if you’re rich or poor dresses nicely. T-shirts and jeans are hardly ever worn.
9) I’ve learned how much I miss a fountain Diet Coke.
10) In Kenya, there is such a large taboo around sex and such a large discrimination against HIV-positive people.
11) There is pretty much no middle class. It’s the haves and the have-nots. There is poverty like I’ve never seen before.
12) There are days where I love Kenya and days where I hate Kenya.
13) I’ve learned how much I miss a good salad or fruit that I can’t peel like grapes and strawberries.
14) Everything takes three times longer here than it does in the U.S.
12) In order to keep your sanity, you have to learn to go with the flow and be patient. You have no control over when a
matatu will arrive, or if the electricity will go off, or if the interview you set up with someone will suddenly be cancelled
for no good reason or if the police decide to randomly stop traffic.
13) I’ve learned how helpless you can feel when you see poverty like I’ve seen in Kibera.
14) When you’re a thousand miles away, an email, a card and a phone call from the people you love makes all the
difference in the world.
15) When you’re in Nairobi and are white, you absolutely cannot walk at night or risk having a pretty good chance of being
mugged.
16) There is much less freedom of the press in Kenya than there is in U.S.
17) It doesn’t matter how much money you have, if you’re white and are in Kenya, the locals will think you are the richest
person in the world and have “ATM” written on your forehead.
18) International aide does not always solve all the problems because it causes people to be dependent on that aide and
never strive for self-sustainability.
19) The roads in Kenya are some of the worst roads I’ve ever seen.
20) When you travel to a developing country, you need to find ways to escape. In my case, watching Grey’s Anatomy DVD’s
was my escape.
21) For people who get car sick, Dramamine is essential when you come to Kenya.
22) Without checks and balances, those in power can cause detrimental effects to their country.
23) You can meet good people everywhere.
24) When something doesn’t turn out the way you plan, keep your eyes open to other possibilities. Michael and I originally
were coming to Kenya to follow a Lost Boy on his quest to be reunited with his family. But that plan didn’t work out,
and I almost decided to cancel the trip. But if I had, I would have missed out on all the things I’ve learned, all the great
people I’ve met and the stories I’m telling about how people are responding to the rising number of orphans affected
and infected by HIV.
25) When you travel to a place unknown and truly step out of your comfort zone, that’s when you grow the most and learn
the most about yourself.
But most of all, I’ve learned how lucky I am. I feel like it’s very fitting that I’m returning on Thanksgiving Day because this year, more than ever before, I really know what I’m thankful for. I’m thankful that I got the opportunity to go on this trip, for the challenges it’s given me, for how much I’ve learned and how much I’ve grown. I’m thankful that I was born in the U.S. and was given so many opportunities that children in Kenya would kill for. And I’m thankful for my friends, family and boyfriend who I’ve missed so much but will see so soon!
Sunday, November 18, 2007
An Escape to Paradise
Thursday, Michael and I flew to Lamu to escape Nairobi for a few days, get a little sun (or in my case too much sun) and relax before we head home to the U.S. next week.
When we had been in the air for about 30 minutes, the pilot announced that there was a problem with the oil and we needed to return to the Nairobi airport to change planes. Honestly, it didn’t surprise me that much. Things are never on time or go as planned here.
We landed at Lamu’s airpot, which actually isn’t on Lamu island itself. It’s on the mainland right across from the island. It has one single landing strip and the terminal consists of several benches covered by a grass-thatched roof.
Lamu is an island off of the northeastern coast of Kenya near the Somalia border.
It’s old and rich in its Swahili culture. It is said that there was a settlement in Lamu 500 years before Christ. Lamu has 25 mosques since everyone from Lamu is Muslim. There are two churches for foreigners to use.
There are only four cars on the entire island that is home to 16,000 people. One belongs to the hospital, one belongs to the police, and the other two belong to the local government.
Everyone walks or rides a donkey to get around or takes a dhow.
There are only two streets that are wide enough for cars to drive on them. Instead, the roads are at times only wide enough for two people to pass each other.
Few of the streets are paved. They’re mostly sand and dirt roads and most people walk around barefoot.
Donkeys roam the streets and the seashore.
I asked a local how people keep track of their donkeys since they seem to just roam around by themselves. He told me that some donkeys have a branding on their legs that identifies them but for the most part, people can just tell by the look of the donkey who it belongs to!
It was dramatically different than Nairobi in terms of safety. Michael and I were able to walk around at night without fear of being robbed. We left our passports, money and my laptop in the room. And anytime we got turned around trying to find our way back through the maze-like village, any of the locals were happy to escort us to our guesthouse.
We stayed in The Banana House, which is named after the owner whose name is actually Banana! It was a quaint, unique place that made you feel right at home.
You take off your shoes when you walk through the doors, rinse your feet into the basin of water, and pop into the kitchen if you’re hungry or thirsty.
Someone is ready to lead you in a yoga class, give you a massage or any other cosmetic treatment.
The Banana House is in a village called Shella, which is about a 40-minute walk from Lamu town. It's a place where everyone knows everyone.
We took a dhow to and from Lamu town whenever we wanted to make a visit there.
Friday, we toured Lamu town, which is a World Heritage City. We saw traditional Muslim homes, ornate carvings on the doors, several mosques, the Lamu fort, and the popular fish, vegetable and fruit, and meat market.
As we walked through the meat market, my stomach got a bit queasy at the sight of chopped off goat heads with their eyes still open.
It poured during our tour of Lamu town. And for the Lamu natives, it was a gift since it hadn’t rained in almost two months.
Saturday, we went on an all-day snorkeling trip with our new friends Steve, Julia and Elizabeth. Steve is from England and Julia and Elizabeth are from Germany, and they’re all working at the German school in Nairobi.
We went to a nearby island and fed the fish jipati, which is basically their version of tortillas and got them to come really close to us.
We saw all different kinds of fish in all different sizes and colors. We also got some beautiful shells to take home with us.
The locals who took us on their boat caught several yellowtails that they cooked for us for lunch. I had never been served a fish with its head and tail still on so it was a new experience picking the meat away from the head and bones.
As we were sailing back to Lamu, we watched the start of a dhow race where the winning boat received 50,000 Kenyan shillings, which is $750!
Later that night, we went to Ali Hippy’s house.
He is an older Lamu man who has been bringing travelers to his home for the last 34 years to have a traditional Swahili dinner and listen to Swahili entertainment. We entered his traditional Muslim home, took off our shoes, and walked into his candle-lit dining room since there was no electricity. We sat in a half-circle on the floor.
His wife poured water on all of our hands so we could wash our hands. There is no soap used, just water. Then his wife and children served us tuna, lobster, coconut rice, vegetables, jipati and desert. The family, which consisted of 18 people, sang traditional Swahili songs while playing drums, a keyboard, and a tambourine.
Ali Hippy is a joyful old man who is the only fat man on the entire island! He said he brings travelers to his home as often as every night of the week. Since he was born in Lamu and has not been anywhere else in the world other than Nairobi for a few weeks, he said he sees the world through the travelers he meets.
Lamu is really unlike any other place on Earth. It’s the definition of relaxing.
And since I have quickly approaching deadlines, it served as a great place to concentrate and write. Other than getting an unbelievable sunburn and getting 31 (yes I counted) mosquito bites, it was a wonderful experience.
When we had been in the air for about 30 minutes, the pilot announced that there was a problem with the oil and we needed to return to the Nairobi airport to change planes. Honestly, it didn’t surprise me that much. Things are never on time or go as planned here.
We landed at Lamu’s airpot, which actually isn’t on Lamu island itself. It’s on the mainland right across from the island. It has one single landing strip and the terminal consists of several benches covered by a grass-thatched roof.
Lamu is an island off of the northeastern coast of Kenya near the Somalia border.
It’s old and rich in its Swahili culture. It is said that there was a settlement in Lamu 500 years before Christ. Lamu has 25 mosques since everyone from Lamu is Muslim. There are two churches for foreigners to use.
There are only four cars on the entire island that is home to 16,000 people. One belongs to the hospital, one belongs to the police, and the other two belong to the local government.
Everyone walks or rides a donkey to get around or takes a dhow.
There are only two streets that are wide enough for cars to drive on them. Instead, the roads are at times only wide enough for two people to pass each other.
Few of the streets are paved. They’re mostly sand and dirt roads and most people walk around barefoot.
Donkeys roam the streets and the seashore.
I asked a local how people keep track of their donkeys since they seem to just roam around by themselves. He told me that some donkeys have a branding on their legs that identifies them but for the most part, people can just tell by the look of the donkey who it belongs to!
It was dramatically different than Nairobi in terms of safety. Michael and I were able to walk around at night without fear of being robbed. We left our passports, money and my laptop in the room. And anytime we got turned around trying to find our way back through the maze-like village, any of the locals were happy to escort us to our guesthouse.
We stayed in The Banana House, which is named after the owner whose name is actually Banana! It was a quaint, unique place that made you feel right at home.
You take off your shoes when you walk through the doors, rinse your feet into the basin of water, and pop into the kitchen if you’re hungry or thirsty.
Someone is ready to lead you in a yoga class, give you a massage or any other cosmetic treatment.
The Banana House is in a village called Shella, which is about a 40-minute walk from Lamu town. It's a place where everyone knows everyone.
We took a dhow to and from Lamu town whenever we wanted to make a visit there.
Friday, we toured Lamu town, which is a World Heritage City. We saw traditional Muslim homes, ornate carvings on the doors, several mosques, the Lamu fort, and the popular fish, vegetable and fruit, and meat market.
As we walked through the meat market, my stomach got a bit queasy at the sight of chopped off goat heads with their eyes still open.
It poured during our tour of Lamu town. And for the Lamu natives, it was a gift since it hadn’t rained in almost two months.
Saturday, we went on an all-day snorkeling trip with our new friends Steve, Julia and Elizabeth. Steve is from England and Julia and Elizabeth are from Germany, and they’re all working at the German school in Nairobi.
We went to a nearby island and fed the fish jipati, which is basically their version of tortillas and got them to come really close to us.
We saw all different kinds of fish in all different sizes and colors. We also got some beautiful shells to take home with us.
The locals who took us on their boat caught several yellowtails that they cooked for us for lunch. I had never been served a fish with its head and tail still on so it was a new experience picking the meat away from the head and bones.
As we were sailing back to Lamu, we watched the start of a dhow race where the winning boat received 50,000 Kenyan shillings, which is $750!
Later that night, we went to Ali Hippy’s house.
He is an older Lamu man who has been bringing travelers to his home for the last 34 years to have a traditional Swahili dinner and listen to Swahili entertainment. We entered his traditional Muslim home, took off our shoes, and walked into his candle-lit dining room since there was no electricity. We sat in a half-circle on the floor.
His wife poured water on all of our hands so we could wash our hands. There is no soap used, just water. Then his wife and children served us tuna, lobster, coconut rice, vegetables, jipati and desert. The family, which consisted of 18 people, sang traditional Swahili songs while playing drums, a keyboard, and a tambourine.
Ali Hippy is a joyful old man who is the only fat man on the entire island! He said he brings travelers to his home as often as every night of the week. Since he was born in Lamu and has not been anywhere else in the world other than Nairobi for a few weeks, he said he sees the world through the travelers he meets.
Lamu is really unlike any other place on Earth. It’s the definition of relaxing.
And since I have quickly approaching deadlines, it served as a great place to concentrate and write. Other than getting an unbelievable sunburn and getting 31 (yes I counted) mosquito bites, it was a wonderful experience.
Sunday, November 11, 2007
A Celebration of Life
Today, we went to the Nyumbani Children’s Home for mass. Instead of gathering in a church or cathedral, we gathered in a schoolhouse.
Instead of sitting in pews, we sat in rows of plastic chairs. And instead of listening to an organ or a piano, we listened to the voices of 100 children singing their praises to God. It was one of the most joyous melodies I’ve ever heard.
As the singing started, about 10 children filed in to the center of the room and began dancing.
A Bible verse was read and then Father Rodrigues began reading the story of Moses. Once he was finished, Protus Lumiti, the center’s administrative manager, asked the children what they learned from the sermon. The children shouted out “trust and obey God”, “be patient”, “depend on God”, “don’t be afraid” and “for God, everything is possible”.
Then Father Rodrigues, Protus and Sister Mary, Nyumbani’s executive director, announced that today’s mass was dedicated to Mia, who was a volunteer at Nyumbani in 2002 for three months. Towards the end of her volunteering, Mia, who was from Baltimore, went on a safari in Masai Mara National Park for a few days. Once she returned to Nyumbani Children’s Home, she began to have symptoms of malaria, which she had contracted in Masai Mara.
She went to the nearby pharmacy to pick up some medicine for malaria. In Kenya, a person does not have to have a prescription to get any type of medicine. All anyone has to do is tell the pharmacist his or her symptoms and the pharmacist will then give them medicine. Mia returned to Nyumbani and took the medicine for malaria that was given to her. A few hours later, she knew something was not right. She told a fellow volunteer that she did not feel well and needed to be taken to the hospital. Her friend drove her to the hospital, but it was too late. Mia had already gone into cardiac arrest and died at the hospital.
Mia had been taking a daily preventive malaria medicine, such as Malarone, like every Westerner who visits Africa. And what happened was the preventive malaria medicine counteracted with the medicine she received from the pharmacist to treat the malaria. The pharmacist didn’t know all of the ingredients for the two different medicines and didn’t know they would counteract.
Mia’s family waited for her body to be sent to the U.S. and did not come to Kenya in 2002. They wanted to visit Nyumbani for years but weren’t sure if they would be able to emotionally handle it. But today, five years after Mia died, her family finally made it to Nyumbani.
Two teenage girls who were close to Mia when she was at Nyumbani sang a song for Mia’s family. As they sang the lyrics, “She’s in her place where there is no ending. There’s happiness with her without pretending”, tears rolled down the faces of the family, the children and the Nyumbani staff.
After the song, everyone followed the family in silence out to the cemetery behind the schoolhouse.
There are about ten graves in this small cemetery from the first children that died at Nyumbani. Eventually, the Kenyan government would not allow Nyumbani to bury the children on their own property anymore. Instead, the children began being buried at a nearby cemetery. But when Mia died, Nyumbani planted a tree in her honor. And today, they rededicated the tree to her.
It was one of the most powerful sights I’ve ever seen. It was a struggle for me to fight back my own tears. As the family gathered in front of the tree, the 100 Nyumbani children circled around them as they all remembered Mia.
You could tell that losing someone is something all to common for the children at Nyumbani.
Protus explained that at Nyumbani life is celebrated no matter if someone has past on because it was a life and that life is to be celebrated. He said Mia’s life might have been a short life but it was a powerful one.
Mia’s mother thanked all of the Nyumbani children for giving Mia the greatest life a mother could ever hope for.
She told the children that Mia was the happiest she had ever been when she was at Nyumbani, and now Mia’s family was so grateful to be able to witness first-hand the special place where she spent her last days on Earth.
Celebrating life is truly the feeling you get when you walk into the gates of Nyumbani. The staff members have this particular focus because there’s always the chance that a child could die from complications of AIDS so while they’re alive, they want their life to be celebrated. And even if they die, they still want to celebrate the life that they had. And as an outsider just visiting Nyumbani, I feel like celebrating life whenever I walk into Nyumbani. The children are just absolutely amazing and fill you up with so much joy that there’s nothing else you really want to do but just celebrate the opportunity you’ve gotten to meet these kids.
There's no better feeling than to be walking down Nyumbani's driveway and have Adelle (pictured above) run out to meet me yelling "Jennifer, Jennifer" and jump in my arms.
And while all of the children are incredible, I have fallen absolutely in love with one little three year-old girl named Winnie.
She’s so cute and willing to give anyone a piece of her heart.
If someone is looking to adopt, PLEASE think about Winnie.
She needs a home and more importantly a family.
Instead of sitting in pews, we sat in rows of plastic chairs. And instead of listening to an organ or a piano, we listened to the voices of 100 children singing their praises to God. It was one of the most joyous melodies I’ve ever heard.
As the singing started, about 10 children filed in to the center of the room and began dancing.
A Bible verse was read and then Father Rodrigues began reading the story of Moses. Once he was finished, Protus Lumiti, the center’s administrative manager, asked the children what they learned from the sermon. The children shouted out “trust and obey God”, “be patient”, “depend on God”, “don’t be afraid” and “for God, everything is possible”.
Then Father Rodrigues, Protus and Sister Mary, Nyumbani’s executive director, announced that today’s mass was dedicated to Mia, who was a volunteer at Nyumbani in 2002 for three months. Towards the end of her volunteering, Mia, who was from Baltimore, went on a safari in Masai Mara National Park for a few days. Once she returned to Nyumbani Children’s Home, she began to have symptoms of malaria, which she had contracted in Masai Mara.
She went to the nearby pharmacy to pick up some medicine for malaria. In Kenya, a person does not have to have a prescription to get any type of medicine. All anyone has to do is tell the pharmacist his or her symptoms and the pharmacist will then give them medicine. Mia returned to Nyumbani and took the medicine for malaria that was given to her. A few hours later, she knew something was not right. She told a fellow volunteer that she did not feel well and needed to be taken to the hospital. Her friend drove her to the hospital, but it was too late. Mia had already gone into cardiac arrest and died at the hospital.
Mia had been taking a daily preventive malaria medicine, such as Malarone, like every Westerner who visits Africa. And what happened was the preventive malaria medicine counteracted with the medicine she received from the pharmacist to treat the malaria. The pharmacist didn’t know all of the ingredients for the two different medicines and didn’t know they would counteract.
Mia’s family waited for her body to be sent to the U.S. and did not come to Kenya in 2002. They wanted to visit Nyumbani for years but weren’t sure if they would be able to emotionally handle it. But today, five years after Mia died, her family finally made it to Nyumbani.
Two teenage girls who were close to Mia when she was at Nyumbani sang a song for Mia’s family. As they sang the lyrics, “She’s in her place where there is no ending. There’s happiness with her without pretending”, tears rolled down the faces of the family, the children and the Nyumbani staff.
After the song, everyone followed the family in silence out to the cemetery behind the schoolhouse.
There are about ten graves in this small cemetery from the first children that died at Nyumbani. Eventually, the Kenyan government would not allow Nyumbani to bury the children on their own property anymore. Instead, the children began being buried at a nearby cemetery. But when Mia died, Nyumbani planted a tree in her honor. And today, they rededicated the tree to her.
It was one of the most powerful sights I’ve ever seen. It was a struggle for me to fight back my own tears. As the family gathered in front of the tree, the 100 Nyumbani children circled around them as they all remembered Mia.
You could tell that losing someone is something all to common for the children at Nyumbani.
Protus explained that at Nyumbani life is celebrated no matter if someone has past on because it was a life and that life is to be celebrated. He said Mia’s life might have been a short life but it was a powerful one.
Mia’s mother thanked all of the Nyumbani children for giving Mia the greatest life a mother could ever hope for.
She told the children that Mia was the happiest she had ever been when she was at Nyumbani, and now Mia’s family was so grateful to be able to witness first-hand the special place where she spent her last days on Earth.
Celebrating life is truly the feeling you get when you walk into the gates of Nyumbani. The staff members have this particular focus because there’s always the chance that a child could die from complications of AIDS so while they’re alive, they want their life to be celebrated. And even if they die, they still want to celebrate the life that they had. And as an outsider just visiting Nyumbani, I feel like celebrating life whenever I walk into Nyumbani. The children are just absolutely amazing and fill you up with so much joy that there’s nothing else you really want to do but just celebrate the opportunity you’ve gotten to meet these kids.
There's no better feeling than to be walking down Nyumbani's driveway and have Adelle (pictured above) run out to meet me yelling "Jennifer, Jennifer" and jump in my arms.
And while all of the children are incredible, I have fallen absolutely in love with one little three year-old girl named Winnie.
She’s so cute and willing to give anyone a piece of her heart.
If someone is looking to adopt, PLEASE think about Winnie.
She needs a home and more importantly a family.
Saturday, November 10, 2007
Feeding, Hugging and Kissing a Giraffe
Today, we went to the Giraffe Center, which is a center where Rothschild’s giraffes are taken out of the wild and placed here until they are three years old. At that point, they are released back into the wild.
The reason they are taken out of the wild for a temporary period of time is because the Rothschild’s giraffe is endangered, and the African Fund for Endangered Wildlife runs the center.
There are three different types of giraffes. Reticulated giraffes have rectangular spots and are seen mostly in northern Kenya. Rothschild’s giraffes look similar to reticulated giraffes except their spots are lighter and there are no spots on their legs. Instead, there’s just white hair on their legs so it almost looks like they are wearing socks. Rothschild’s giraffes are only seen near Lake Nakuru. And lastly, the Masai giraffes have dark jagged spots and are commonly seen southwest of Nairobi, particularly in the Masai Mara National Park.
At the center, you can observe, hand-feed and even kiss Rothschild’s giraffes from a raised circular wooden structure.
The Rothschild’s giraffe has the longest tongue I’ve ever seen and it’s gray, not pink like ours.
One of the center’s staff members warned me to not get too close to the giraffes when I don’t have food in my hand because they will head butt you if you don’t have food!
Once I got comfortable feeding the giraffe, I gave the giraffe a hug.
And then the staff member encouraged me to kiss the giraffe. So I took a piece of food in between my teeth and leaned in towards the giraffe. I pulled back the first few times because the giraffe’s huge tongue shooting straight towards me was a bit intimidating.
But eventually I got up enough courage and let the giraffe take the piece of food out of my mouth. In other words, I let it kiss me.
I got giraffe slobber all over my chin but it was still worth it. It was so freaking cool to be that close to a giraffe, which by the way is my favorite African animal.
The reason they are taken out of the wild for a temporary period of time is because the Rothschild’s giraffe is endangered, and the African Fund for Endangered Wildlife runs the center.
There are three different types of giraffes. Reticulated giraffes have rectangular spots and are seen mostly in northern Kenya. Rothschild’s giraffes look similar to reticulated giraffes except their spots are lighter and there are no spots on their legs. Instead, there’s just white hair on their legs so it almost looks like they are wearing socks. Rothschild’s giraffes are only seen near Lake Nakuru. And lastly, the Masai giraffes have dark jagged spots and are commonly seen southwest of Nairobi, particularly in the Masai Mara National Park.
At the center, you can observe, hand-feed and even kiss Rothschild’s giraffes from a raised circular wooden structure.
The Rothschild’s giraffe has the longest tongue I’ve ever seen and it’s gray, not pink like ours.
One of the center’s staff members warned me to not get too close to the giraffes when I don’t have food in my hand because they will head butt you if you don’t have food!
Once I got comfortable feeding the giraffe, I gave the giraffe a hug.
And then the staff member encouraged me to kiss the giraffe. So I took a piece of food in between my teeth and leaned in towards the giraffe. I pulled back the first few times because the giraffe’s huge tongue shooting straight towards me was a bit intimidating.
But eventually I got up enough courage and let the giraffe take the piece of food out of my mouth. In other words, I let it kiss me.
I got giraffe slobber all over my chin but it was still worth it. It was so freaking cool to be that close to a giraffe, which by the way is my favorite African animal.
A Birthday In The Middle Of Nowhere
Michael and I needed to make another visit to the Nyumbani Village near Kitui, Kenya, which is 3 hours west of Nairobi, and the only time we could make arrangements was over my birthday. We had organized a ride with Nyumbani but at the last minute, that fell through so we had no other option but to take public transportation. So Wednesday afternoon, we met George, who is in charge of the sustainability project at the village, and found a matatu that was headed towards Kitui.
Since matatus drive pretty fast, we actually made it to Kitui in three hours despite getting a flat tire. Once we arrived in Kitui, we waited for an hour for someone from the Village to pick us up. Like I’ve said before, you get really good at waiting around in Kenya. Nothing happens on time. Pretty soon after we arrived, we went to bed because when there is no electricity, there’s not much else to do after dark.
Thursday morning (my birthday) we were greeted by the familiar faces of the volunteers we met last time we visited the village and joined them for tea and bread and butter. Michael and I had a really busy day, interviewing five different people, attending the library opening, and interacting with the grandmothers.
Just to give you a quick reminder- the village was started by Nyumbani as a response to the rising number of AIDS orphans and elders left behind without anyone to care for them. By 2010, it is estimated that there will be 25-30 million orphans in sub-Sahara Africa. The village, which consists of makeshift blended families of grandmothers and children, has a goal of being self-sustainable in 5-10 years.
The grandmothers showed us how they weave their baskets.
It can take 3-4 days to weave just one basket. Once the grandmothers finish the baskets, they’re sold at local markets.
Susan Gold, the Fulbright scholar from Wisconsin that created the sexual education program, organized the donation of 4,000 books in order to make the village’s library.
Susan and Sister Mary, the executive director of Nyumbani, traveled to Kitui on Thursday for the library’s official opening.
About 20 children sang and danced before thanking Susan for her generosity.
Nicholas, the program director of the Village, explained the meaning behind the song and dance.
Susan told the children that the greatest thing she ever learned was how to read because every time you open a book, you can be anywhere in the world. Then she presented the children with a map of the world and told them that their job is to grow up strong, study hard and take their place in the world.
She pointed to the U.S. on the map and told the children that while she lived there, a big part of her heart is always here.
Later that afternoon once the children got out of school, Susan unpacked several boxes of donated clothes from a sorority at the University of Wisconsin.
As the children filed in to gaze at their new clothes, Susan and I helped them find clothes that fit them best.
It was so amazing to watch the children’s faces light up as they tried on their new sweatshirt or pants.
I followed some of the children back to their cottages and hung out with them as they washed their school uniform by hand.
Fifth, sixth, seventh and eighth graders go to school from 7 AM to 5 PM and then return to the school building from 7 PM to 9 PM for what they call Preps, which is basically a study hall/tutoring session. A 15 year-old girl named Alice, who was in 7th grade, invited me into her cottage. She said she wanted to practice her English and asked if I would help her until she had to go to Preps. This was my favorite moment of the day.
As we sat down to eat rice and lentils for dinner, one of the volunteers turned to me and said, “I bet this is the birthday meal you’ve always dreamed of.” But actually spending my birthday in the village where there was no electricity, no running water and only a pit latrine for a toilet wasn’t that bad. It was actually a birthday I’ll never forget. Every birthday I’ve ever had has been about me: my party, my birthday cake, my birthday presents. But this year it wasn’t about me at all. It was about the children who got a library filled with 4,000 books. It was about the children who got a bunch of new clothes. And it was about how Alice was so proud to practice her English on me.
After dinner, I spent some time outside by myself gazing up at the stars. There’s no way I can possibly explain the beauty of the sky that night. It was breathtaking and I know it will be a moment I’ll remember for the rest of my life.
I got up early Friday morning to watch the sun rise and write in my journal. It's nice to be away from all the noise, pollution and people in Nairobi.
After breakfast, Michael, Susan (the Fulbright scholar) and I began our journey back to Nairobi.
We were supposed to get a ride to Kitui town at 8 AM but we didn’t leave until about 8:30 and instead of going straight to town, we made several stops along the way.
Like I said, everything takes longer (about 3 times longer) in Kenya. While we were waiting for the correct matatu to come, we ran into a man wearing a Nashville t-shirt. Michael told the man that he was from Nashville, and the man said he didn’t know Nashville was a place.
Once the correct matatu did arrive, we started to walk towards it but were dumbfounded when we saw a goat jump out of it! The conductor told us the matatu was going all the way to Nairobi so we jumped in. There should only be 15 people in a matatu at one time but on this day, the conductor allowed 20 people in at one point! It was crazy! Susan turned to me and said, “Well at least it’s all people and no goats!” Once we got about halfway to Nairobi, the matatu stopped and said it was not going on to Nairobi. I’m realizing that this is all too common in Kenya. Bus and matatu conductors will often lie to you just so they can get you on their vehicle and get your money. So we jumped on a bus bound for Nairobi. Onboard was a man who decided to start preaching to everyone in Swahili for about 30 minutes. And at one point, I looked out the window and saw live chickens strapped to the top of a bus. I thought to myself, only in Africa.
The ride to Nairobi was complete hell. While the ride to Kitui on Wednesday was not that bad on the matatu, riding on a bus is worse because you’re higher up and feel more bumps. And since I have extremely long legs, lengthy bus and matatus rides can be miserable. And while Susan, Michael and I were all sweating and burning up, the Kenyans sitting around us kept closing the windows because they think 85 degree weather is cold!
Once we finally arrived in Nairobi six hours later, we rewarded ourselves with lunch at Java House where I got a salad and a chocolate milkshake. I’m craving salads left and right because we can only order them at really nice places because the lettuce isn’t safe.
After a hot shower, Michael and I went to a really nice Italian restaurant for my birthday dinner, a day late. We had lasagna, pizza, vegetables, red wine and tiramisu. It was absolutely wonderful!
Thank you to everyone who called, emailed or facebooked me for my birthday. When you’re a thousand miles away, it’s really nice to hear from family and friends, especially when you’re a thousand miles away on your birthday.
Since matatus drive pretty fast, we actually made it to Kitui in three hours despite getting a flat tire. Once we arrived in Kitui, we waited for an hour for someone from the Village to pick us up. Like I’ve said before, you get really good at waiting around in Kenya. Nothing happens on time. Pretty soon after we arrived, we went to bed because when there is no electricity, there’s not much else to do after dark.
Thursday morning (my birthday) we were greeted by the familiar faces of the volunteers we met last time we visited the village and joined them for tea and bread and butter. Michael and I had a really busy day, interviewing five different people, attending the library opening, and interacting with the grandmothers.
Just to give you a quick reminder- the village was started by Nyumbani as a response to the rising number of AIDS orphans and elders left behind without anyone to care for them. By 2010, it is estimated that there will be 25-30 million orphans in sub-Sahara Africa. The village, which consists of makeshift blended families of grandmothers and children, has a goal of being self-sustainable in 5-10 years.
The grandmothers showed us how they weave their baskets.
It can take 3-4 days to weave just one basket. Once the grandmothers finish the baskets, they’re sold at local markets.
Susan Gold, the Fulbright scholar from Wisconsin that created the sexual education program, organized the donation of 4,000 books in order to make the village’s library.
Susan and Sister Mary, the executive director of Nyumbani, traveled to Kitui on Thursday for the library’s official opening.
About 20 children sang and danced before thanking Susan for her generosity.
Nicholas, the program director of the Village, explained the meaning behind the song and dance.
Susan told the children that the greatest thing she ever learned was how to read because every time you open a book, you can be anywhere in the world. Then she presented the children with a map of the world and told them that their job is to grow up strong, study hard and take their place in the world.
She pointed to the U.S. on the map and told the children that while she lived there, a big part of her heart is always here.
Later that afternoon once the children got out of school, Susan unpacked several boxes of donated clothes from a sorority at the University of Wisconsin.
As the children filed in to gaze at their new clothes, Susan and I helped them find clothes that fit them best.
It was so amazing to watch the children’s faces light up as they tried on their new sweatshirt or pants.
I followed some of the children back to their cottages and hung out with them as they washed their school uniform by hand.
Fifth, sixth, seventh and eighth graders go to school from 7 AM to 5 PM and then return to the school building from 7 PM to 9 PM for what they call Preps, which is basically a study hall/tutoring session. A 15 year-old girl named Alice, who was in 7th grade, invited me into her cottage. She said she wanted to practice her English and asked if I would help her until she had to go to Preps. This was my favorite moment of the day.
As we sat down to eat rice and lentils for dinner, one of the volunteers turned to me and said, “I bet this is the birthday meal you’ve always dreamed of.” But actually spending my birthday in the village where there was no electricity, no running water and only a pit latrine for a toilet wasn’t that bad. It was actually a birthday I’ll never forget. Every birthday I’ve ever had has been about me: my party, my birthday cake, my birthday presents. But this year it wasn’t about me at all. It was about the children who got a library filled with 4,000 books. It was about the children who got a bunch of new clothes. And it was about how Alice was so proud to practice her English on me.
After dinner, I spent some time outside by myself gazing up at the stars. There’s no way I can possibly explain the beauty of the sky that night. It was breathtaking and I know it will be a moment I’ll remember for the rest of my life.
I got up early Friday morning to watch the sun rise and write in my journal. It's nice to be away from all the noise, pollution and people in Nairobi.
After breakfast, Michael, Susan (the Fulbright scholar) and I began our journey back to Nairobi.
We were supposed to get a ride to Kitui town at 8 AM but we didn’t leave until about 8:30 and instead of going straight to town, we made several stops along the way.
Like I said, everything takes longer (about 3 times longer) in Kenya. While we were waiting for the correct matatu to come, we ran into a man wearing a Nashville t-shirt. Michael told the man that he was from Nashville, and the man said he didn’t know Nashville was a place.
Once the correct matatu did arrive, we started to walk towards it but were dumbfounded when we saw a goat jump out of it! The conductor told us the matatu was going all the way to Nairobi so we jumped in. There should only be 15 people in a matatu at one time but on this day, the conductor allowed 20 people in at one point! It was crazy! Susan turned to me and said, “Well at least it’s all people and no goats!” Once we got about halfway to Nairobi, the matatu stopped and said it was not going on to Nairobi. I’m realizing that this is all too common in Kenya. Bus and matatu conductors will often lie to you just so they can get you on their vehicle and get your money. So we jumped on a bus bound for Nairobi. Onboard was a man who decided to start preaching to everyone in Swahili for about 30 minutes. And at one point, I looked out the window and saw live chickens strapped to the top of a bus. I thought to myself, only in Africa.
The ride to Nairobi was complete hell. While the ride to Kitui on Wednesday was not that bad on the matatu, riding on a bus is worse because you’re higher up and feel more bumps. And since I have extremely long legs, lengthy bus and matatus rides can be miserable. And while Susan, Michael and I were all sweating and burning up, the Kenyans sitting around us kept closing the windows because they think 85 degree weather is cold!
Once we finally arrived in Nairobi six hours later, we rewarded ourselves with lunch at Java House where I got a salad and a chocolate milkshake. I’m craving salads left and right because we can only order them at really nice places because the lettuce isn’t safe.
After a hot shower, Michael and I went to a really nice Italian restaurant for my birthday dinner, a day late. We had lasagna, pizza, vegetables, red wine and tiramisu. It was absolutely wonderful!
Thank you to everyone who called, emailed or facebooked me for my birthday. When you’re a thousand miles away, it’s really nice to hear from family and friends, especially when you’re a thousand miles away on your birthday.
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